JÓZEF NYKA
ARNO PUŠKÁŠ 1925–2001
Mieliśmy przyjaciela
 
[Arno Puškáš]
 
  

Copyright (c) 2011 by Józef Nyka


Szybko – za szybko – przerzedzają się nasze szeregi, a każde odejście to nie tylko strata kogoś bardzo bliskiego, ale i powstanie nowej luki w kronikach naszego sportu. Szybko też – za szybko – sylwetki naszych górskich druhów zapadają w niepamięć, przesłaniane kolejnymi nekrologami. W sierpniu zeszłego roku minęło 10 lat – kiedy one przeleciały? – od odejścia Andrzeja Zawady, a w grudniu – Witolda H. Paryskiego. W tym roku w czerwcu mija 10 lat od dnia, kiedy opuścił nas nasz stary i oddany przyjaciel zza Tatr, Arno Puškáš, któremu polskie powojenne taternictwo ma tak wiele do zawdzięczenia. Członkostwo honorowe KW i PZA to było jedyne, co – poza zbiorową sympatią – od nas otrzymał w zamian. Bóg szczodrze wyposażył go w talenty: był wybitnym taternikiem, bywałym w świecie alpinistą, ratownikiem górskim, ale także niezrównanym gawędziarzem, płodnym publicystą, filmowcem i wielkim samorodnym talentem plastycznym. Wielostronnie uzdolnieni ludzie zdarzają się częściej, Arno jednak we wszystkich dziedzinach zdążał do perfekcji i w żadnej z nich nie chciał się realizować w sposób amatorski. Co ważniejsze: nie bez powodzenia!
Pożegnaliśmy go na skromnych łamach „Głosu Seniora” 7/2001, a obszerniejsza wersja biogramu pozostała w komputerze z myślą o naszej Biblioteczce Historycznej. Odświeżamy ją z okazji tej pierwszej dekadowej rocznicy. Nie pozwólmy mu pogrążyć się w niepamięci, młodszym zaprezentujmy go jako alpinistę, pisarza, artystę i – człowieka, dziś jest dla nich bowiem już tylko etykietą dróg na tatrzańskich ścianach. Wróć, Arno, choć na trochę, między Twoich wymierających już górskich przyjaciół – z Twoim serdecznym ciepłem, Twoim dowcipem i z Twoim szczerym, ujmującym uśmiechem. Łączy nas tyle dobrych wspomnień...
 

GBH0000    31 (2011)
[brak_tresci]

GBH0000  ARNO PUŠKÁŠ 1925–2001 31 (2011)
Born on February 4, 1925 at Košice in Eastern Slovakia, Arno Puškáš combined a resolute mind with physical skills and innate personal charm, qualities which enabled him to achieve success in many different activities. His interest in rock climbing started when he was 20. He soon became a respected member of a small group of very elite climbers. From 1946 on he lived in the High Tatras, from 1946 till 1958 being a manager of mountain huts and from 1958 a professional member of the Tatra Rescue Service. In the late '40s and during the '50s Arno was the principal driving force of the Slovak Tatra activity. He has been at the forefront of Slovak climbing for nearly two decades. He was an avid and excellent skier. His mountaineering in the Tatras included 210 first ascents, among them 110 completed in winter. He established a number of beautiful new routes, some of them popular until the present days. Among the most famous are the Puškáš Pillar of the Ganek, te SW rib of the Voliá veža, the Puškáš Fissure on the W face of the Lomniký štít... His best known winter achievements include the first winter ascents of Żabi Koń N face (1949), the “Birkenmajer” on the W face of Lomnický šiít, the “Stanisławski” on the N face of Kiežmarský štít (1953). His climbing ethics were always of the highest standard.
Arno Puškáš was also a renowned alpinist, climbing in many parts of the world. Summer 1948 Julian Alps, Yugoslavia (Jalovec 2643 m, Triglav 2863 m N face Bavarian route); summer 1954 Transsilvanian Alps (Bucegi), Roumania; summer 1956 French Alps (Tour Ronde 3792 m N face, Aiguille Verte 4121 m by Couloir Couturier, Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248 m by Couloir Gervasutti); summer 1958 Central Caucasus, USSR (Pik Shchurovski 4300 m, Elbrus 5633 m). Arno also travelled and climbed in Africa and Asia. In 1968 he ascended Damavend (5671 m) and Ararat (5156 m), in 1973 the Djebel Toubkal (4167 m). In 1969 and 1971 he took part in two Czechoslovak Nanga Parbat expeditions, on 11 July 1971 making first ascents – the apex of his climbing career – the foresummit 7910 m and the top 7530 m of this famous eightthousander. In 1974, 1976 and 1977 he participated in a score of fine first ascents in the Fanskiye Gory Mountains (Tajikistan, USSR), including the Chimtarga (5487 m), the highest in the range. Tatra climbing, however, remained his first love.
As well as being an outstanding mountaineer, Arno showed considerable artistic skill. He was a talented writer and gifted graphic artist. “For me mountaineering was not simply an athletic discipline. It soon developed into an intelectual tool as well.” He was a frequent contributor of articles and climbing chronicles to the mountaineering journals. His early Tatra adventures he recounted in his books “Horolezci v tatranských stěnách” (1952) and “Priatel'stvá na lane” (1954). In 1953 he edited a supplement to the existing climbing guides „Nové výstupy vo Vysokých Tatrách 1945–1953”. Later appeared a tourist guide for German visitors “Die Hohe Tatra, Touristenführer” (co-author, 1965, 1967, 1969). Arno's wast knowledge and exactitude made him an ideal climbing guidebook writer. During the years 1957–1989 Arno wrote and edited 10 volumes of his own Tatra climbing guide “Vysoké Tatry”. This work has had a profond effect on the development of the Tatra climbing sport. In the years 1972–1974 he was together with Ivan Urbanovič the author of the illustrated Nanga Parbat reports of the Czechoslovak expeditions 1969 and 1971. His book “Fanské vrchy, Svet pät'tisicoviek” (1981) and his journal accounts about this mountain range were a revelation for Soviet mountaineers as well. In graphics he attained a professional competence and developed some original techniques. His pictures and brilliant, bright-coloured collages were presented abroad where they received a lot of appreciation. He participated regularly in exhibitions, his drawings appeared in many magazines and books at home and in foreign countries as well. He made a secondary carreer as mountain film star and later film-maker.
Arno had many friends in Poland, in 1974 the Polish Klub Wysokogórski awarded him with the Honorary Membership. He had to his dying day a perfect memory of every climb he made, every climber he met and every encounter in the mountains. His death on 9 June 2001 is a great loss to his son Peter, to the mountain climbing fraternity as well as to the climbing history.
Józef Nyka