IRENA PAWLEWSKA-SZYDLOWSKA
LU, HELCIA, GLUSKULA
Helena Dluska 1892–1921
 
[Helena Dluska]
Opracowanie, przypisy i redakcja: Monika Nyczanka
  

Copyright (c) 2013 by Jozef Nyka


Helena Dluska [ur. 13.IV.1892 w Paryzu, zm. 16.X.1921 w Chicago, zob. s. 27], corka Bronislawy i Kazimierza Dluskich. Jedna z najwybitniejszych taterniczek sprzed I wojny swiatowej. Mieszkala w Zakopanem i od wczesnej mlodosci chodzila duzo po Tatrach, glownie w towarzystwie swej kuzynki, Ireny Pawlewskiej (-Szydlowskiej). Obie nalezaly do pierwszych samodzielnych taterniczek, gdyz chodzily na drogi taternickie rowniez i bez mezczyzn, we dwojke, juz w wieku 16 lat. W 1908 dokonaly I wejscia z Hlinskiej Doliny nowa droga na Szczyrbski Szczyt, co bylo pierwszym problemem taternickim rozwiazanym przez same kobiety. Ponadto, w towarzystwie Tadeusza Pawlewskiego i Tadeusza Swierza, Dluska w 1909 dokonala I wejscia na Swistowy Rog oraz I wejscia nowymi drogami na Zachodnia Rowienkowa Turnie i Graniasta Turnie. Juz od 1908 byla czlonkiem ST TT. W pazdzierniku 1909, podczas samotnej wspinaczki na Kominach Strazyskich miala wypadek i odtad z powodu kalectwa stopy uprawiala w Tatrach juz tylko turystyke. Zajmowala sie tez zywo ochrona przyrody i byla czlonkiem Sekcji Ochrony Tatr TT od jej powstania w 1912. Od 1920 mieszkala w Chicago, pracujac w redakcji „Dziennika Ludowego”. W 1921 zrobila wycieczke w okolice Longs Peak, co opisala: Wycieczka w Gory Skaliste („Kalendarz Ludowy”, Chicago 1922, czesciowy przedruk w „Taterniku” 1922).
Biogram z „Wielkiej Encyklopedii Tatrzanskiej”
 

GBH0000    36 (2013)
[brak_tresci]

GBH0000  HELENA DLUSKA 1892–1921 36 (2013)
Helena Dluska was born in 1892 in Paris and was known by the nickname »Lu«. Since her early years she inherited a passionate love for the wild life and particularly the Tatra Mountains. Her climbing started when she was 15. In the summer seasons of 1908 and 1909 she took part in some notable ascents. She was one of the first girls to make cordees feminines in the Tatras. Accompanied by her cousin Irena Pawlewska (-Szydlowska), in August 1908 she completed the first ascent of the N face of the Strbsky stit (2385 m) which hadn't been climbed before. Each of the girls was 16 years old. Among her climbing accomplishments were the first ascent of the unclimbed Svist'ovy roh (2012 m, 3 August 1909) and new routes on Hranata veza (2260 m, NW ridge, 4 August 1909) and Rovienkova veza (2272 m, SW ridge, 4 August 1909). Helena accompanied her aunt Maria Sklodowska-Curie on her excursions to the Tatra Mountains. They climbed the summit of Swinica (2301 m) and travelled through lovely meadows and dark forests to the remote Nefcerka Valley. Devoted to the wild nature, she was a keen advocate of mountain protection and an active member of the Natural Science Section of the Tatra Society (Towarzystwo Tatrzanskie, TT). Helena and Irena were among the early members of the Polish climbing club Sekcja Turystyczna TT. Helena's career as a climber was virtually brought to an end on the 13th of October 1909 as a result of a serious climbing accident on the Trzy Kominy in Strazyska Valley. However, some years later she was able to make minor excursions. In 1920 she left Poland and went for America. In 1921 after a long interruption she returned to the mountains, when she paid a lone visit to the area of Longs Peak in the Rocky Mountains. In 1921 she commited suicide in a consequence of a mental disorder. Her grave does not exist, her funeral urn perished in 1944 in the flames of Warsaw Uprising. Helena Dluska was a remarkable personality of great originality and strengths of character. In some aspects her life and career has been overlooked by historians.
Jozef Nyka